Everybody’s Gwacheon for the Weekend

Warmer weather is finally starting to creep its way back into Seoul. It’s been up and down since February, alternating between jacket-free afternoons and those that give you the impression that winter might just start up all over again. Now that the weather is better, I’ve been feeling more and more like getting out of […]

Life and Lies in the DMZ

I recently accomplished a quiet dream I’ve had for some time. It’s not a secret that North Korea is one of the most insane nations on the planet and I have found that the more information I glean about the overprotective, isolated nation, the more I am fascinated with it’s insistence to remain tucked away […]

Apparitions from Home

It’s strange when you leave your home and move to another side of the world. It’s even more strange when visitors come from what feels like a former life. Last week my parents came to visit from Canada. Seeing them again for the first time in six months was wonderful, and I did my best […]

The War that Never Ended

Given the current state of South Korean relations with their less-than-cozy neighbour to the North, I have been getting a lot of questions about how things are over here on the still-technically-at-war peninsula. The answer is somewhat complicated. A very brief history lesson: The Korean War technically didn’t end, there was simply an armistice signed […]

Christmas in Korea

For the first time in my life I find myself far, far from home on Christmas. While I’ve only been away for less than six months, my previous existence back home now seems like a vague and fuzzy hallucination. It’s a strange feeling when mixed with a holiday that evokes the most vivid of memories. […]

A Rare Moment of Clarity

Dead silence in the classroom. Two students and a teacher munching on their break time snacks, staring off into space. Stella, who is seven years old, decides to break the silence. “I wish this was just an eating class.” she says. I look over and she’s munching on dried noodles with hot sauce. “We could […]

Moving Up in the World: Hiking Cheongye Mountain

Despite the reality that it is late in November, a warm Sunday affords a unique opportunity. We decide to head Cheongyesan, a mountain located less than ten minutes from our apartment on the bus. A hop on the shuttle and soon I find myself standing at the foot of a mountain that I fully intend […]

All Eyes on the Quiet Metropolis

Four months have evaporated into the aether of time. I count off the months not in days or weeks but what, to the senses, are merely flashing moments of surrealism. How long have I lived on the other side of the world? Seconds? Weeks? Months? Really? Yesterdays are collecting like old clothes in the attic. […]